India’s textile industry is a major contributor to global waste, generating approximately 7,800 kilotonnes annually, which accounts for about 8.5% of the world’s total textile waste. This makes textiles the third-largest component of dry municipal solid waste in the country.
Despite the vast quantities generated, only a fraction of this waste is effectively managed:
- Roughly 34% is reused, often through informal channels like repair and upcycling.
- Only 25% undergoes recycling.
- The remaining waste is either incinerated, downcycled into lower-value materials, or, most commonly, sent to landfills.
A significant concern is the increasing use of Man-Made Fibers (MMFs), which constitute 94% of India’s MMF production (primarily polyester and viscose). Unlike natural fibers, MMFs are non-biodegradable and release harmful microplastics into water bodies during washing, exacerbating environmental damage.
Key Drivers Behind Soaring Textile Waste
Several factors contribute to India’s growing textile waste problem:
- Lack of Standardization: There’s no comprehensive national system to consistently quantify or categorize textile waste.
- Resource Inefficiency: A substantial portion of textile waste fails to re-enter the production cycle, indicating poor resource recovery.
- Unorganized Sector: The recycling infrastructure is fragmented, relying heavily on an informal waste sector comprising around 4 million workers who often lack formal training, safety measures, and access to advanced technology.
- Landfill Overload: The prevalent practice of dumping textile waste in landfills leads to the release of methane, a potent greenhouse gas, and toxic leachate that contaminates soil and groundwater. Examples include the severe pollution of the Noyyal River in Tamil Nadu and the Bandi River in Rajasthan due to textile effluents.
- Technological Hurdles: Recycling blended fibers, such as cotton-polyester mixes, is particularly challenging due to their differing properties, limiting efficient recycling processes. Consequently, much of the recycled textile waste is converted into low-grade yarns.
Initiatives Towards a Sustainable Textile Industry
Both the government and private sector, alongside research institutions, are taking steps to address these challenges:
- Government Initiatives: The Government e-Marketplace (GeM) and Standing Conference of Public Enterprises (SCOPE) have partnered to promote the procurement of recycled textiles by government entities, fostering circular economy practices.
- Private Sector Responses: Major brands like H&M and Zara are adopting “vertical sustainability,” integrating eco-friendly practices throughout their supply chains—from sourcing and production to design. Many brands are now committed to incorporating 20-30% sustainable fabric in their collections to meet their Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) objectives.
- Research Innovations: Collaborations like that between NITRA and NBRI have led to the development of biodegradable alternatives to synthetic fabrics, such as milkweed-based fibers. Internationally, companies like Spinnova (Finland) are pioneering chemical-free processes to produce fabrics from wood pulp and textile waste, demonstrating advanced circular textile innovations.
Paving the Way Forward for Sustainability
To achieve true sustainability, India’s textile industry needs a multi-pronged approach:
- Implement Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR): Hold brands accountable for the entire lifecycle of their products, from designing for durability and recyclability to managing end-of-life disposal.
- Enhance Waste Infrastructure and Technology: Establish dedicated urban textile recovery centers and invest in advanced technologies like RFID tagging, automated sorting systems, and chemical recycling to boost efficiency and reduce reliance on landfills.
- Formalize the Informal Sector: Integrate the estimated 4 million informal waste workers into the formal system through Public-Private Partnership (PPP) models, providing them with training, social security, and professional opportunities. The Swachh Pune model, which integrates waste pickers into cooperatives, serves as a successful example.
- Promote Sustainable Consumer Habits: Encourage conscious consumption, reuse, and responsible disposal through initiatives like the LiFE mission. Campaigns should be launched to popularize second-hand markets and educate consumers on proper textile waste management.